Beneath New York's tough shell is a deep wound
Sydney Morning Herald
In a school on West 109th Street, a group of schoolgirls heard the noise and panicked. "We're all going to die again!" screamed one girl.
New Yorkers like to portray themselves as tough, cope-with-anything people with an indomitable spirit. And to a certain extent that it is true. They go about their daily life as before.
Apart from the ugly hole in the ground that was once the World Trade Centre, the city appears to be as prosperous and dynamic as ever. The share market is approaching its pre-crash levels. Wall Street has resumed its million-dollar bonuses. The real estate market is back to its nose-bleed heights.
But the events of that day five years ago stay with Jerry Wolf, an Australian who has lived in New York for 20 years. "I'm off crowds," he says. "I try to avoid rush hour. If I am in Grand Central Station at 5pm I'll think 'this is a prefect target' and hurry through it."
Wolf, a senior vice-president at Oppenheimer & Co, was working in the World Financial Centre, just across the road from the World Trade Centre on September 11. He had arrived at work as usual just after 7am. At 8.45 there was a loud noise. Word went around that a helicopter had hit the World Trade Centre.
The building was evacuated via the fire stairs, but with the stairwells crowded and believing evacuation was an overreaction, Wolf decided to get out at around the 20th floor. He went back up to his 34th floor. In the now empty office a television had been left on. As he watched, the second plane hit the south tower. This time, there was no doubt he had to leave the building.
He wrote down his experiences the next day. The crackle of the burning buildings was audible at street level even though the flames were 70 or 80 floors above, he wrote.
"What was worse still was the sound of screams and helpless shrieking from the poor people that were now leaping to their deaths as they escaped the fierce heat. This was without doubt the saddest and most helpless moment of the entire experience, if not my whole life."
His company offered confidential counselling. His first reaction was dismissive. "I thought, that's bullshit. Americans go to the shrink, Australians go to the pub. But he was having trouble sleeping. He was not having nightmares, but he would wake and not be able to go back to sleep. Finally his wife urged him to ring the counselling number. The counsellor suggested he return to look at the site. His brother's girlfriend was working at St Paul's Chapel, one of the centres of the recovery effort, so he decided to volunteer. Wearing a gas mask, he delivered water, lollies, chocolate and Red Bull to the workers in the pit. Even a month after the collapse, the debris was still burning. Among the many uniforms, he recognised a familiar one. It was a NSW firefighter who had taken two weeks holiday to help in the recovery effort. He asked where he was from; "Sylvania Waters," he replied.
That type of unity of grief and purpose in the days after September 11, have given way to a fracturing over how the World Trade Centre site should be developed and how the victims should be remembered.
But below New York's skin, there is a deeper wound. While the "war on terrorism" grinds on in a faceless, endless way, for New York, as the movie trailers would say, it's personal.
On the east side of Manhattan, the New York Medical Examiner's Office still has a tent that holds 13,790 pieces of human remains that have not been matched to any individual.
And that number is increasing. The Deutsche Bank building was so heavily damaged by the collapse of the twin towers that it is being demolished. But in April this year 300 pieces of human remains were found on its gravel roof.
The World Trade Centre site continues to an embarrassment to New Yorkers. It has become the ground zero of the political squabbles, with state, city and private interests jockeying for advantage - and money.
The original master plan by Daniel Libeskind was elegant and heavy on symbolism, but has been amended almost out of recognition. Its height, 541 metres (1776 feet) and name - Freedom Tower - remain statements, but the rest of the project is now driven by commercial concerns.
The memorial itself is an even sorrier tale. The original plan, titled Reflecting Absence, has been substantially changed after a cost blowout that threatened to drive the price above $US1 billion ($1.3 billion). Even after cutting back the budget, $US170 million needs to be raised from donations.
In the absence of a memorial, different groups have found their own places to grieve and remember.
The medical examiner's tent is a place of remembrance for families; the damaged Fritz Koenig sculpture, The Sphere, which once stood between the twin towers, is now at Battery Park, where the ferries leave for the Statue of Liberty. But the most popular place, apart from the wire fence that surrounds ground zero, is St Paul's Chapel. Just across from the World Trade Centre site, the small church was miraculously unharmed by the collapse of the building - not even a pane of glass in the chapel was broken.
During the recovery effort, it became a place for rescue workers to rest and be fed. The pew where George Washington prayed after his inauguration became a work station for podiatrists working on the rescue workers' sore feet. It has now become a de facto memorial, at least for the thousands of tourists who gawk at the exhibits inside the chapel, while services proceed around them.
The Reverend Dr Stuart Hoke is happy to accommodate this spiritual if not religious function into the church's work. It is serving as a shrine, he said, for people to gather and express whatever they need to express. "I want to be a part of that effort. I want this world to find a better way of dealing with violence than more and more warfare," Dr Hoke said. President George Bush was due to visit St Paul's Chapel yesterday. It will be interesting to know if he hears this message.



















